Out & About

5Church Delivers Gospel of Fine Dining

This past Sunday, I had what might be called a “religious experience” at 5Church, a restaurant befittingly located in a former Charleston church.

My rapture begins with an unassuming table basket of fresh pita chips and hummus. Next, I sample the Sushi Tots appetizer – a yummy fried rice concoction. The ahi tuna, ponzu (citrus sauce) and Sriracha aioli is a masterful balance of flavors. This is a testament to the executive chef’s culinary credo. Jamie Lynch, a Bravo “Top Chef” alum, describes his menu as a “hybrid of flavors from all over the world” showcasing good ingredients.

I’m picky about sea scallops, but I offer high praise for my entree. Perfectly-seared, they are served over melt-in-your-mouth shrimp pirlou with a tomato lime emulsion. Heaven. Pirlou is a signature South Carolina rice dish similar to risotto.

My husband and son are wowed and completely filled by the fried chicken served with chili infused honey. It’s served with sides of apple slaw, creamy campanelle and a fluffy biscuit. After tasting the fried yukons, I rethink my dislike of blue cheese. We’re closer now.

Next time, I’ll fast for a day or so to create stomach space for the Blackberry Lemonade Brulee or Cookies and Cream Beignets.

A Feast for the Eyes

The ambiance is equally divine. The Great Earthquake of 1886 destroyed the city’s first “Mariners’ Church.” The Charleston Port Society helped build this non denominational church to replace it in 1916. The Church of the Redeemer Chapel and The Harriott Pinckney Home for Seamen operated for 50 years.

In its latest incarnation the beautiful architectural features are intact and seasoned with creative inspiration. Weathered wood and exposed brick are juxtaposed with contemporary art installations.

God is in the details. A mural of a $5 bill incorporating Charleston imagery resides under an enormous Gothic stained glass window. “Almost every piece is original,” says Julia Kane, a 5Church server and College of Charleston student. She enthusiastically shares history and design details.

Branches of a dramatic steel tree reach out across the dining room. Most striking – the entire text of Sun Tzu’s “The Art of War” is painted in white neat rows of lettering across the black ceiling. In larger print you’ll find, “Beware of artists they mix with all classes of society and are therefore most dangerous.”

Angel wing light fixtures of white feathers glide above the bar. To the right, graffiti artist Ishmael depicts Charleston’s past, present and future in a large painting. 5Church offers a feast for the eyes with something new to digest with each glance.

The Holy City is blessed with fantastic dining options, but this trinity of great food, staff and setting shouldn’t be missed. Put on your Sunday best and head to 32 B Market Street (rather than where its name suggests). It’s across from the city market.

susan@susanmatthews.com

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